Step One: Preparing the Core

This design is functional for any blue flanged mace. Anything larger would require open cell foam on the flanges. I've chosen to make my mace core 24' long (which will make it a 27' total mace). The reason for this is my fiberglass core is 4'. I cut it exactly in half. The two halves are then DAP'd together. Let this DAP for an extended period - I'd say a day if you have it. You want this to be dry - this is your core after all. The cut sides of the fiberglass are going to be in the pommel (just in case). I've also wrapped that end extensively with duct tape to reduce the likelihood of the fiberglass splintering dangerously. The smoother ends will be at the head of the weapon. Though the DAP should be enough to hold these by itself, I've taken the precaution of putting strapping tape wraps at occassional points along the core. If necessary, the entire core could be wrapped in strapping tape.

Step Two: Penny Ending

Apply a penny end to your head. This will be somewhat odd as the end is oval and the penny is round. For this type of penny end, start by supergluing the penny on. Then you'll put strips over duct tape over the penny. Keep doing it until the penny is fairly secure, then wrap around the entire assembly very tightly the keep the strips from peeling up (as in "around the rod"). Then, of course, wrap it all in cloth tape.

Step Three: Designing the Head

Now, mark 1.5" for pommel and whatever you like for a handle. Everything from there up will be part of this weapon. You will be cutting out the shape of the weapon in 2 dimensions. You may do almost anything with this layer, so long as you keep 2 things in mind. First, the foam below the main head must be at least .75" wide. Without this, I fear the weapon might eventually fail for having too hard of a haft. (I suppose alternatively you could just make the head and later put on tube insulation, but you might as well do it right the first time!!!) The second thing is that you must cover the end of the rods with 1" of foam. This is "incidential padding" if you don't add a stabbing tip, otherwise, it'll be a really critical part out your weapon. A portion equal to the width of the paired rods (the longer of the two directions) will be cut out of the middle. You will also need to create a pattern that will help you cut future pieces. You'll use it another 10 times! In my case, I cut the foam first by creating half, folding it over, and cutting the other side. Afterwards, I cut the pattern. Do whichever you are most comfortable with.

Step Four: First Piece Attached

DAP the piece you've cut onto the core. You will want to do this while the DAP is still a little wet. This piece will require a bit of work to get positioned correctly. Two things to keep in mind, this piece is very delicate and even after it's DAP'd is very fragile. Treat it with care.

Step Five: Halfway Done

Now, make six more head pieces (including the .75" minimum haft padding), using your pattern. Attach them in sets of three, insuring that the haft side is as smooth as possible. The striking side can be easily trimmed if it's too far off. Attach these pieces perpindicular to your previous piece (one on each side). The middle of the three layers should line up directly between the rods. Your assembly will now have two new pieces with 3 layers and the original one layers opposite of this.

Step Six: The Shorter Layers

You'll now need to cut four layers like before, however, with one critical difference. The haft side needs .25" taken off. Check the picture if you're even slightly confused about that. The way the layers overlap cause the three piece portion you've just added to hang over the edge of the rod by .25". If your rods are a different size than mine, you may have to adjust this up or down a few demical points. These four pieces will be attached to the first layer you put on.

Step Seven: Form the Spacers

Measure the thinnest part of the head of your mace. Round this down to the nearest half inch. In my case this was an easy 1". Form two pieces, using DAP, that aregeometric boxes. The end (width & height) will be a square, the size you just figured. 1" would need 2 layers cut 1" wide, 1.5" would need 3 layers cut 1.5" wide. As for how long, measure from the bottom of your head to the top. The portion used to cover the rod should not be considered in this. After these pieces are reasonably dry, cut them diagonally so you have 4 triangle shaped pieces. They won't cut very straight, just do your best.

Step Eight: Attach the Spacers

Put the spacers into the portions between your flanges. The right angle of the triangle will be put against the flanges. Very simple. These spacers will help strengthen your flanges from bending side to side immensely.

Step Nine: Optional Stabbing Tip

As an option, a stabbing tip can be added to this mace. Trim the trip so it's smooth if you haven't cut perfectly, then measure it. The widest point of the tip needs to be 2.5". Oh no, you say that yours isn't that big? Don't worry... just put a ring of Evalite around the end. You might only need 1/4" Evalite for this. I went with 1/2" which puts the widest point at nearly 3". It is best to exceed safety guidelines than to try to skirt as close as possible to them. After you've made sure your end is big enough, cut a piece of 2" Unifoam to fit. It will be a slightly oval shape if you cut carefully enough. Wrap stabbing tip with 2-3 layers of duct tape as necessary to keep the tip from ripping off or bending too far to the side. The stabbing tip will be the structural failure of the weapon in the long term - try to make sure your cover addresses this issue or add more foam/tape.

Step Ten: Finish It Up

If you've cut very poorly, take the opportunity to use a foam knife to trim your flanges. Don't cut much, if anything, off your haft padding. This step is purely aesthetic after all. For extra durability, a 1/4" layer of Evalite can be put over the outer edge of each of the flanges. This will help spread the hit out a bit better across the three layers of the flanges. It isn't necessary, however. After your trimming, all you need to do it add a pommel, sock the weapon, and finish your handle. Congratulations!